French toast. Sounds simple, and ingredients-wise, it is. As with many simple things, its origins and history are deeper and more complex than you might think.
And as with many simple things, it’s surprisingly easy to get a meh result. I’ll give you a glimpse of the journey of this most-beloved breakfast dish, from Rome to today, and share 6 sure-fire tips on making your best French toast (or Pain Perdu, or Arme Ritter, or etc) ever.
To get the basics out of the way: The dish is made by soaking slices of bread in a mixture of beaten eggs, milk, and sometimes sugar, then frying them until golden brown. Whether you fry them in butter or oil tends to be based on national cuisine, and personal preference. But clearly this is fried bread, not toasted bread. Not toast.
And did the French invent it? No. No matter how much people (some French, some not) might like to think so. That Americans call it French toast appears to be the result of immigration, fondness for things French, and 20th century wartime experience.
Love for this sometimes decadent, sometimes comforting pre-noon meal isn’t limited to America. What is French toast called in other places?
• In other Anglophone countries, French toast is often called “eggy bread” today. For obvious reasons.
• In Germany, it is called “Arme Ritter” which translates as “Poor Knights.” A similar name is found in the medieval period in English: “Poor Knights of Windsor.” A proper historian could tell you exactly why; all I can say is that apparently some knights, even though they served lords and kings, were not wealthy, even though they were knights. They needed simple, cheap foods too.
• In Spanish-speaking countries, it usually references France, or the ingredients. “Pan francés” or “pan dulce” (sweet bread) in Mexico; “tostada francesa” or “torrija” in Spain; “pan perdido” in Argentina; “pan con huevo”, or bread with egg, in Peru and Chile.
And what about France?
There, it’s called “pain perdu.” “Pain perdu” (and “pan perdido”) means “lost bread,” and referred to the dish’s use of stale or leftover bread that would otherwise go to waste. Pain perdu was popular among the working class and the poor, all over Europe. The name sometimes traveled with it; 16th- and 17th-century English recipe books refer to “Payne Puredew” and “Pamperdy.”
It went by many different names, but the dish was typically prepared in a similar way in all these places, and still is today.
Who made the first-ever French toast? Nobody knows who “discovered” egg-and-milk-soaked fried bread; it’s almost certain to be the result of necessity and invention at a community level, and not the creation of any one person. And the concept of making hard bread soft with liquid, is surely as old as bread itself.
The earliest recorded mention of what we know as French toast, dates back to a recipe from 4th or 5th century Rome, where it was called “Pan Dulcis”. The recipe, in Latin, instructs the cook to remove the crusts from fine white bread, soak in milk and beaten egg, fry in oil, cover with honey and serve. At that time, recipes were written by cooks, for cooks; not for average householders. Leaving literacy aside, could a poor household have afforded white bread, made with finely milled wheat? And to throw away the crusts? And put honey on top? Likely not. With such simple ingredients, this dish could be made as plain or as fancy as anyone might prefer (or might afford) – it was as true then as it is today. The upscaling of common foodways was already present, 1500 years ago; but that’s another post.
When did Americans start eating French toast, and calling it by that name?
An exact date when French toast first appeared in American recipe books and on American menus, can’t be known. The dish came over with immigrants, of French and other European origins, since it was common throughout Europe. As successive waves of people came from different countries, they likely brought their own local spins on it.
It starts being called “French” – showing up in American food encyclopedias, recipe books and menus as French toast – near the end of the 19th century. Why? Marketing, probably.
America has had a love affair with French food since the country’s founding, if not before. At a dinner served at Thomas Jefferson’s White House, the menu included “potatoes served in the French manner.” At the time, this likely referred not to their being fried, but to the way they were sliced: along their length. Still, it goes to show how even then Americans were associating French cuisine with refinement and high standards of excellence and enjoyment.
Even in the late 1800s, to call something “French,” if you could get away with it, was to say to everyone that this despite its simple appearance, this toast stands out as something special, definitely worth savoring.
Then came World War I, which brought American soldiers to Europe and back into direct, undiluted contact with common European foodways of the time. This is how a cone of “pomme frites”, enjoyed by American GIs in the French-speaking half of Belgium, got translated into “French fries” back home, and may have reinforced the appeal of “French” food in even wider levels of American society.
Life doesn’t stop, and neither does marketing (said with love, respect, and not a little bit of hunger). Three-day old bread becomes French toast with notes of vanilla or cinnamon, and French toast becomes the weekend’s decadent calorie-bomb. Made with brioche, or cinnamon rolls, or croissants; topped with syrup, or whipped cream, or Nutella; graced with berries, compotes, whipped soft cheeses, even candied nuts and bacon shavings.
That brings us to today, and the 6 key things you need to know, to make the best French toast of your life.
1 – Stale Bread: The nature of the bread you’re using, determines everything else.
The first thing to do is suss out how fresh or stale your bread is. Why stale? Slightly stale bread absorbs more of the egg mixture than bread that’s still very fresh. If your bread is still quite fresh, leaving slices out to dry overnight will produce bread that’s perfect for French toast in the morning.
No time for that? Put the slices in a low heat (275 F) oven for ten minutes. Or pop them into your toaster on a light setting. The goal is to get some of the moisture out, so that the egg and milk can better get in.
Can bread be too stale for French toast? Technically, no; even rock hard bread will soften if soaked long enough, though it will have less flavor and will be chewy rather than develop a custardy inside.
2- Sliced Right: The next thing to do is get the thickness of the slices right.
In general, bread slices for French toast should be about 1/2 to 1 inch thick, according to the bread’s ability to stand up well to the egg and milk, and not become too soggy.
A soft spongy bread such as brioche, challah, or soft white sandwich bread, is best sliced slightly thicker, about 3/4 to 1 inch. This will help the bread to take in the egg and milk without falling apart during cooking. Thicker slices also tend to produce that custardy texture inside, and this is what many people love about French toast.
If the bread is firmer, such as whole wheat bread, whole grain bread, and seeded bread, it is best to slice it slightly thinner, about 1/2 inch. Firmer breads are denser and can handle a thinner slice without falling apart or becoming too heavy. Thinner slices also tend to have a slightly more crispy texture, which some people love.
Even if you are using up old bread for your toast, these guidelines can help; you just may need to increase the soaking time to bring your old bread back to delicious life.
3 – Thick Egg & Milk Mixture: The egg and milk mixture is what gives French toast its signature custardy texture and flavor, along with whatever spices you want to add such as vanilla, cinnamon, or sugar.
How thick? A good rule of thumb is to use a 1:1 ratio of eggs to milk. To serve four, that’s 4-6 eggs and 1 to 1 1/2 cups of milk. If there’s too much milk in proportion to the egg, the egg part of the mixture won’t cook through, leaving your toast less custardy and more soggy.
Whisk the mixture very well, to avoid finished toast that has unmixed patches of egg white or clumps of spices. These can make your toast look less than perfect, especially for plain pale bread with no additional ingredients like nuts or raisins.
4 – Soaking Time: Make sure to thoroughly soak the bread in the mixture to ensure that every bite is rich and delicious.
Using a shallow bowl is key, as it allows you to fully submerge each slice of bread in the mixture. This ensures that the bread is evenly coated with the mixture, giving you the same texture through the entire slice of bread.
It is essential to soak the bread for long enough. Generally speaking, your bread needs a lot more than a 2-second pass through the mixture. The more mixture gets into the bread, the more custardy the texture of your cooked French toast. If you are not getting the inside texture that you want – too custardy, or not custardy enough – there is a mismatch between the kind of bread you are using (soft, vs firm) and the amount of time you are letting it soak up the liquid.
As mentioned above, don’t be tempted to add “extra” milk to the mixture in an effort to get the bread wet through faster. You’ll get sog, not custard.
5 – Patience in the Cooking Pan: The way you cook your French toast can make or break the dish.
Pre-heat, pre-heat, pre-heat. And use medium heat. It’s too easy to scorch your toast by using heat settings that are too high, especially if you choose to add sugar to your egg and milk mixture; the sugar will caramelize fairly quickly. Especially if you’re a fan of the crispy bits, resist the urge to overheat your pan. With enough cooking time, the toast will get crisp – and not burnt.
Butter is essential for French toast. Some people like the nutty taste that comes with browned butter; but if you’re concerned about your butter burning, add a little sunflower oil too, to prevent this.
Cook the French toast until it is golden brown on both sides; this should take 3 – 4 minutes per side, for a texture that is slightly crispy on the outside but still custardy on the inside.
6 – Rise to the Toppings: While classic toppings like syrup and butter are always delicious, get creative with your French toast toppings to take the dish to the next level.
Fresh fruit, whipped cream, caramel sauce, or Nutella are all special, but the possibilities are endless.
If you’re cooking French toast for a crowd, and you have the room for it, consider creating a toppings buffet so people can personalize their toasts. Many toppings can be prepared and presented in advance, so you can focus on perfect toast.
Looking for more? Here are some French toast ideas that are less common, or still emerging, but unfailingly delicious.
1. Savory French Toast: Add ingredients like grated cheese, herbs, or even bacon. You can top the resulting savory toast with additional savory ingredients like sautéed mushrooms, tomato sauce, or avocado. A great way to switch up your breakfast routine and explore new flavor combinations.
2. Matcha French Toast: Matcha, a type of green tea powder, is a popular ingredient in Japanese cuisine, and is getting increasingly popular in the US. Matcha French toast involves whisking matcha powder into the egg and milk mixture, giving the dish a unique earthy flavor and green color. The finished dish is often served with traditional French toast toppings like powdered sugar, maple syrup, and fresh fruit. This unusual preparation is a delicious way to add a touch of Japanese flavor to a classic.
3. French Toast Casserole: A twist that’s perfect for feeding a crowd or meal prep. Instead of cooking individual slices of French toast, the bread is cut into cubes and soaked in the egg and milk mixture overnight, then baked in a casserole dish until golden brown and crispy. You can add in ingredients like nuts, fruit, or even chocolate chips to the bread cubes before soaking them.